Ten Tips for Laser Hair Reduction Success

IPL treats hair more superficially therefore can absorb the skins melanin at the same time which increases the risk of burning. Nd:Yag lasers bypass the epidermis where the skins melanin lies therefore making it safer for darker skin types.

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1. Laser works best on dark, thick hair. It does not work at all on blond, white grey, red hair or hair that is dyed. This all comes down to laser physics. The laser is attracted to the melanin in your hair so without that melanin, the laser has nothing to heat up. It is not as successful on thinner hairs but it can still work with the correct settings. The thicker and darker the hair, the more the laser heats up. If you have blond, white, grey or red hair electrolysis would be the next option although it’s tedious and more painful. The average is 6-12 sessions 6-8 weeks apart to achieve 90% reduction in hair growth. It’s impossible to remove 100% of the hairs. This is why we call it laser hair reduction and not laser hair removal.

2. Shave as closely as possible the night before your treatment and not the morning of. The morning of, you have more fluid accumulated from laying down all night so you can get a closer shave the night before. No, we don’t need to see where the hair is growing, we treat the whole area to make sure nothing is missed. When the hair is grown out slightly (stubble) and not closely shaved, the energy of the laser is wasted burning the excess hair. The energy doesn’t go to the bulb of the hair where the blood supply and stem cell lies. We want all the energy to go towards burning that hair bulb. It also hurts a lot more if it’s grown out too much. There are unnecessary smoke fumes that go into the air when the hair isn’t shaved well.

3. Avoid tanning the skin at all. The closer you are to your natural skin color the better. Depending on the laser, there needs to be a good contrast between your hair and your skin. Dark, thick hair and light skin are excellent candidates for laser with permanent success. If the skin color is similar to the hair color, it increases the risk of burning your skin and you are more likely to need more sessions because the settings have to be turned down. If you have a darker complexion, look for a 1064 Nd: Yag laser. 1064 bypasses the top layers of the skin and less likely to burn you. Lighter skin types do well with Diode, Alexandrite and IPL hair removal lasers. (See photo) All skin types can use diode lasers although 1064 is better for darker skin. Darker skin types should avoid IPL and Alexandrite lasers. Avoid laser in the sunnier months on face, arms and legs if you can’t stay out of the sun. Also avoid sunless tanners 4 weeks prior.

4. Males, genetically hairy and patients with hormonal imbalances will have a more difficult time achieving permanent hair reduction. It’s difficult to determine how many sessions you will need however these patients usually need more sessions than others. It may be a long term maintenance instead of permanent hair reduction. Hormone imbalances make the hair growth unstable therefore laser hair reduction will also be unstable. Males have more testosterone which is a hair growth stimulator. At the very least, it will allow the hair to grow in slower, more sporadic and thinner but harder to achieve permanent hair reduction. A thorough exam from an Endocrinologist is recommended prior to laser hair reduction.

5. Stay on top of your appointments. 4-6 weeks for face, 6-8 weeks for body. This is all based on our hair growth cycles. When you have achieved about 90% reduction, come in as needed for touch ups. I call it “playing it by hair.”

6. Understand that hair will grow back because hormone changes are inevitable and touch ups will be needed. It’s not that the laser didn’t last, it’s that your hormones are growing your hair back.

7. Shaving the hair does not make the hair grow in thicker. Shaving only changes the shape of the hair and does not trigger more hair growth.This is a long standing myth. The only way your hair growth will change is because of hormones.

8. Avoid lasering while taking antibiotics or using prescription strength retinol. (otc retinol is ok) Certain antibiotics can cause photosensitivity and can cause a burn with the laser. If you are lasering your face, caution with acid use a week before laser (alpha-hydroxy, beta hydroxy, ascorbic etc.) The exception is hyaluronic acid. Avoid chemical peels two weeks before.

9. The success of your laser treatment is also operator dependent. If you don’t feel the laser causing a rubberband snap feeling on your skin, let the technician know. You should be able to feel heat where there is dark hair growing. There will be much less heat where there is no hair. Request to see the same technician each time if possible.

10. BE YOUR OWN ADVOCATE! Laser hair removal should not hurt badly, it should feel like a rubberband snap, heat initially and should dissipate quickly. All burns that have happened with laser hair removal had one thing in common: it was very painful, but the operator ignored the patient and told them it was normal. If you are a darker skin type, look for a 1064 nanometer Nd: Yag Laser. Do NOT ALLOW the operator to use an IPL device for laser hair reduction on you! If you are medium skin toned: 1064 nanometer Nd: Yag or Diode lasers are safe, IPL can be used with caution. For lighter skin types: All lasers including IPL will work well.

THE PROBLEM WITH LASERS IN THE US: There are almost no regulations as far certifications and trainings needed prior to operating a laser. Texas is the only state to my knowledge that requires a laser certification prior to operation. Its the wild west! As long as they have a Medical Director or Nurse Practitioner depending on the state, they can pretty much buy a laser and start using it on patients next day. Pretty scary! So to any patients reading this, be your own advocate, do your research if you have any questions feel free to reach out to me at cosmeticnursemarisa@gmail.com

Laser hair reduction was one of the first treatments I learned 10 years ago and I still believe it to be one of the best investments for unwanted hair, ingrown hairs, pseudofolliculitis barbae, and razor bumps. I’ve used 7 different lasers over my career and I have seen the best success with Alexandrite lasers on lighter skin. Laser hair reduction is a commitment but will be well worth it in the end. P.S. if you are thinking about It, invest in it before your hairs turn grey or white!

Lasers I have personally used:

• Palomar Starlux IPL LuxR

• Candela Gentlase Alexandrite Laser

• Rohrer Spectrum Diode

• Alma Harmony Soprano Ice Diode

• Alma Harmony Soprano XL

• Coccoon Primelase Diode

• Lumenis Stellar M22 IPL